Discovering Kyrgyzstan

Félix, a Redion staff member, is happy to travel to less touristy countries and regions, which are no less interesting for that. In this article, he shares his travel impressions of Kyrgyzstan with us.

Good reasons to visit Kyrgyzstan

If you tell your friends and family that you're going to Kyrgyzstan, you'll certainly spark their surprise or curiosity. They'll ask you all sorts of questions, such as: is it a safe country, where is it located, and so on.

Song Kul Lake

Kyrgyzstan (also spelled Kirghizstan) is an interesting destination for any traveller wanting to get off the beaten track. Indeed, the country is aimed above all at hiking/trekking enthusiasts in the great outdoors (whether on horseback or not). There you can admire canyons (in particular the Fairy Tale canyon) similar to those in Texas, plains as far as the eye can see, glaciers and mountains of every colour. In short, adventures and pleasant surprises are guaranteed.

Besides nature, the low cost of living there is also a plus for travellers on a limited budget.

Where is Kyrgyzstan located?

The second country on the Silk Road, it is a former Soviet republic located in Central Asia, bordered by western China, Tajikistan to the south, Kazakhstan to the north and Uzbekistan to the west. It covers an area of around 200,000 km² and has a population of just over 6.2 million.

A safe country?

You're probably wondering whether the country is safe, since few people decide to go there. During my sixteen days of travel, I personally never witnessed the slightest violence, nor any crime.
If you're travelling alone as a woman and are thinking of travelling in the country, there should, in principle, be no security issues. All the locals we met in the country were honest and trustworthy. The main difficulty lies in the lack of shared language on the ground. Indeed, most Kyrgyz people outside the capital will speak to you in Russian, as they have no knowledge of English! With a bit of goodwill, a few common Russian words and some gestures, you should nonetheless manage without too much trouble.

How to get to Kyrgyzstan?

It's not really difficult to get to Kyrgyzstan. In terms of formalities, travellers with a Belgian or Luxembourg passport can travel there for 60 days without a visa. A simple valid passport is enough. However, don't forget to register on the www.travellers.online website of the Belgian Foreign Affairs Ministry. Also check their travel advice.

From Belgium, you can reach Bishkek either via Istanbul (Turkish Airlines) or via Moscow (Aeroflot). I chose Aeroflot and everything went very smoothly. Still allow at least 2 hours for the transfer in Moscow to give yourself some margin. The same goes if you decide to transit via Istanbul.

How to get around locally?

Marshrutkas in Bishkek

In town, the simplest option is to download the YANDEX app and book taxis through it. Rides rarely exceed 5 euros. As an example, from the city centre to the airport, you'll pay at most 8 euros by taxi.

On the other hand, intercity transport is a bit trickier. In Bishkek, the capital, there are often marshrutkas (minibuses dating from the Soviet era) connecting the main other towns for a very affordable price (i.e. often less than 10 euros). Elsewhere, you'll sometimes have to make do with shared taxis (which only leave once full!) or hitchhiking. Personally, I had to combine one with the other at times.
There's no safety issue and hitchhiking is fairly easy. The fare will depend on your negotiating skills. Since you're in a country with few tourists, most drivers who might pick you up hitchhiking don't speak any English at all, and you'll have to manage… in Russian! A few basics of the language of Dostoevsky will be of GREAT use to you!

The local way of life

For centuries, the Kyrgyz people were nomads who set up their yurts in vast plains. They lived there in harmony with nature and raised animals near their yurts. Nowadays, most Kyrgyz people have settled down, but for the rare tourists who venture into their country, they organise horseback treks and demonstrations of yurt assembly.
You can therefore spend a night in a yurt located in a valley surrounded by magnificent mountains, some thirty kilometres from China (at Tash Rabat).

Try the local cuisine

Kyrgyz manti

The country's geographical position greatly influences what you'll find on your plate. Local cuisine is a mix of Central Asian and Russian dishes (the country has quite a few Russians). Venture into any "greasy spoon", and you'll certainly find lamb shashliks (tasty little skewers), manti (a kind of large steamed dumpling), plov (Kyrgyz-style fried rice) and more.
As for hygiene, I never had any problems. Local restaurants are generally quite clean and their meals delicious.

Methods of payment

Unless someone provides you with soms (the Kyrgyz currency), it's practically impossible to get hold of them in Europe. No currency exchange office here will offer you this currency.
A little tip: bring cash with you when travelling to Kyrgyzstan so you can exchange your euros or dollars for soms. There are currency exchange offices in the country's major cities, namely Bishkek and Karakol.

ATMs don't accept all credit cards. Since I only used cash, I can't tell you any more about these machines.

Payment in most hotels in the capital is possible by credit card, but outside of that, cash really is king.

The best season

The period between May and October is the most interesting. Simply because, before or after this period, it snows a lot in the mountains and it's almost impossible to access them, as the trails are frozen and slippery. Another reason is that locals only organise horseback rides once the mountains are no longer covered in snow.

Some real-life experiences and tips

Get properly equipped

Tash Rabat caravanserai.

We set off in "daredevil" mode and ventured into a vast plain which, starting from Karakol, was supposed to lead us to the village of Altyn-Arashan. On Google Maps, it looked simple, a straight road to follow.

We quickly realised that reality on the ground is quite different: there are quite a few mountains blocking the way. Either you go around them (which takes an incredibly long time), or you decide to climb them, knowing full well they're often very steep.
That's where everything is decided!

Equip yourself properly to avoid accidents that would unexpectedly put an end to your holiday: wear good hiking boots that cover your ankles (this will help you avoid any risk of a sprain), take walking poles, which will help you a lot (they're essential).
Travel with a large backpack and forget about suitcases. Besides, they don't fit in shared taxis or minibuses, and most pavements don't let you wheel a suitcase along (potholes).

A head torch that you wear on your forehead can come in handy if you get lost, as we did, deep in the mountains in the middle of the night.

Besides that, the maps.me app, a sort of offline Google Maps, works wonderfully in the mountains to show you your position and will be very useful if – like us – you get lost.

Ты говоришь на русском? (Do you speak Russian?)

As explained above, the country has only just opened up to tourism. Most signs are in Russian or Kyrgyz. Almost everyone speaks Russian. Being able to decipher the letters to catch the right minivan can be very useful. Being able to ask for a price for a taxi ride can also help you, since most of the time no one around you will speak English, which makes the experience fun and authentic.

Don't "overplan" your holiday

Have an idea of the route you want to follow, but don't overload your schedule, as unexpected events can await you in this fantastic country. Don't try to visit as many places as possible; instead plan for around 4 places in 2 weeks and adapt your itinerary based on what you discover. Sometimes you'll want to stay a bit longer in one spot, or you'll have found an unplanned place…

Travel with peace of mind

Kyrgyzstan is a safe country for solo or family travel. People are welcoming and won't hesitate to help you! If you venture into trekking or hiking, always try to travel with a guide so you don't get lost like we did. We nearly fell off a mountainside, in which case we would have had to call on our travel insurance. That wasn't the case, but it was close! So remember to take out travel insurance in case something goes wrong.

A few must-sees in Kyrgyzstan

• The capital, Bishkek, has no particular appeal other than the fact that your trip will inevitably start in the capital, which holds quite a few monuments dating from the Soviet era. Notable ones include: Victory Square with its eternal flame, Ala-Too Square and the presidential palace. These fairly massive and empty monuments will give you a general idea of the typical architecture of post-Soviet cities. One day in Bishkek should be enough.

The "Fairy Tale Canyon"

The small town of Cholpon-Ata on the northern shore of Lake Issyk-Kul is worth a visit if you want to go hiking. It offers a lovely elevated view over the lake and over some rather beautiful rocky expanses.

• On the southern shore of the same lake, don't miss the "Fairy Tale Canyon", which is truly amazing! You'd think you were in a canyon right in the middle of Texas! The grand landscapes will take your breath away!
• The Tash Rabat caravanserai in the south of the country (close to the Chinese border) is a monument where Silk Road merchants used to trade and rest. The landscape around the caravanserai is simply majestic! Imagine beige-coloured mountains as far as the eye can see!

Have a great trip!

Félix

Photos: © Shutterstock & Félix Wang