Discovering Jordan

Travel blogger and photographer Yannick from "Soms ook heimwee" is a traveller through and through. He explored Jordan for us, sharing practical tips for a holiday at the heart of the Middle East, along with his beautiful photos.

Jordan is a country full of contrasts. A country where antiquity meets modernity, desert meets greenery, and tranquillity meets adventure. From the mysterious rock formations of Petra to the clear blue waters of the Dead Sea, this country has something for everyone.

A few practical tips for travelling in Jordan

Before you pack your bags and your "factor fifty" sunscreen, here are a few practical tips about Jordan.

1. The Jordanian dinar

In Jordan, the local currency is the Jordanian dinar (JD). The exchange rate fluctuates regularly, but 1 JD is roughly equivalent to 1.34 euros. Dinars are easy to get hold of at the airport, at a currency exchange counter or at a cash machine. If you plan far enough ahead, you can also easily order them from your bank. Keep in mind that once there, it's harder to change money outside the airport. Also bear in mind that you can't pay by card everywhere, so it's handy to always carry some dinars with you, especially when visiting a souk. Cash is easier to use, which comes in handy when dealing with pushy vendors.

2. Do you need a visa?

The two things you absolutely need in Jordan are a visa and a pass for Petra. A visa costs 40 JD (around €50) and a day's entry to Petra costs 50 JD (around €63).

You can get both together for less. With the Jordan Pass, you only pay 70 JD (around €88) and your visa as well as entry to Petra are included. You can buy a pass for 1, 2 or 3 days. It also gives you access to more than 40 attractions in Jordan, including the wonderful Wadi Rum, the Amman Citadel and plenty of other interesting sights.

Tip: register your trip before you leave on the Travellers Online website of the Belgian Foreign Affairs Ministry, and take out good travel assistance cover.

3. The "clingy" vendors

You're travelling in the Middle East, so it's only natural that you'll run into plenty of "pushy vendors". You'll come across them at Petra, for example. At the "Treasury of Petra", all sorts of vendors are ready to swoop down on you like hungry hyenas. My tactic? Ignore them and avoid eye contact. You'll see children under 6 running around everywhere offering postcards, and you'll feel them tugging at your sleeve. Others will offer to take photos of you at the site. Try not to fall into the trap, because nothing is free, certainly not at Petra!

4. Spending the night in Jordan

A few addresses within walking distance of Petra: Sunset Hotel, La Maison Hotel, Petra Boutique Hotel
A few hotels in Amman: Beirut Hotel, La Casa Hotel, Sandra Hotel. You'll find them online.

For a truly unique experience, camp with the Bedouins in the desert at the Green Desert Camp in Wadi Rum.

2. Eating and drinking in Jordan

Arabic cuisine is really worth discovering! If you love good food, the Jordanian seaside resort of Aqaba is a great place to be.

Aqaba: Rakwet Kanaan, Aqaba House
Amman: Sufra, Al Quds, Fatatri, Jafra Café
Wadi Musa and Petra: Zawaya Restaurant & Cafe, Beit Al-Barakah Restaurant, Reem Beladi Restaurant

A few local specialities:

• Mansaf: the national speciality made with lamb, yoghurt and rice.
• Zarb: a Bedouin dish cooked in a clay oven (taboon). The meat and vegetables are cooked and served with rice and various mezze such as tabbouleh, falafel, tahini and hummus.
• Kanafeh: a dessert made with cheese, thin pastry strands, butter and syrup.
• Shai: sweet black tea, often served by Jordanian nomads.

The golden rule is to always keep a close eye on what you eat and avoid raw vegetables as much as possible. Raw vegetables are often washed in tap water, something Western stomachs are often very sensitive to.

6. How do you get around Jordan?

Getting around Jordan's major cities is a challenge. For your peace of mind and safety, choosing the most suitable mode of transport is the best option if you want to visit various places. For around five dinars (€6.75), you can take a taxi in the major cities. Book it through your hotel.
Want to go on a day trip? In that case, I recommend booking an organised tour that also includes transport. You'll generally travel by minibus.
Want to discover natural sites like "Wadi Rum"? Take a minibus to the site, rent a jeep there, and set off exploring under your own steam.

4 must-see places in Jordan

Camels, sand, ancient heritage sites, the lowest sea on Earth... Jordan has it all.
Here are 4 unmissable sites you can discover on a tour of this sun-drenched country, with its impressive mountain ranges and rich culture.

1. Petra: the capital of the Nabataeans

Half built, half carved into the rock, this pink city is unique and is one of the most famous archaeological sites in the world. This popular attraction is without doubt a must-see when visiting Jordan.

As a starting point, it's best to head to the town of Wadi Musa. From there, you can walk to the gateway to Petra, the Siq. Once you've made your way through the stunning canyon, you'll be able to admire the site's magnificent ruins, such as the Al-Khazneh palace, Ad Deir, the amphitheatre, and more. Bring a packed lunch (you can often ask your hotel for one) or eat at one of the food stalls on site. Keep in mind that you'll be covering quite a few kilometres at this 250 km² UNESCO World Heritage site. Wear sturdy walking shoes, bring plenty of water (as it gets very hot) and protect yourself from the sun.

During peak season, Petra fills up quickly with tourists. Set off early in the morning. This will help you avoid the big crowds (and the pushy vendors) and give you plenty of time to explore the site.

With a Jordan Pass, you pay 70 JD (around €88) and your visa as well as entry to Petra are included. You can buy a pass for 1, 2 or 3 days. The pass gives you access to more than 40 attractions in Jordan, including the wonderful Wadi Rum, the Amman Citadel and plenty of other interesting sights.

Petra is a truly unique place, not to be missed under any circumstances during your visit to Jordan.

2. Wadi Rum: one of the most beautiful deserts in the world

Wadi Rum, or "the valley of the moon", is one of the most beautiful deserts in the world. What makes it so special are its magnificent rock formations, its vast desert landscapes and its rust-red sand. To reach this otherworldly place, it's best to go via the town of Aqaba. From there, you can reach the area on foot or by jeep. Rent a car and explore the desert in a 4x4, go for a camel ride, have tea with the Bedouins (Jordan's original nomads), or spend a night in one of the traditional Bedouin camps. Want to see shooting stars? You can do just that from this valley with its moon-like appearance. Entry to this desert costs 5 JD, with proceeds used to support local Bedouin communities and protect the desert. Car rentals and bus tours can be arranged through hotels, travel agencies or online.

3. Amman: a lively, cultural city

A visit to this country's lively capital absolutely has to be on your list. It's full of life and blends old and new cultures. Amman offers a change of scenery from the serenity of the desert.

Visit Amman's city-centre souk. Let the scent of the various spices on display fill your nostrils, admire the finest hand-woven carpets, and haggle with the locals to pick up some lovely souvenirs. Don't be put off by the crowds, because that's precisely what gives the souk its charm. A small tip: keep some local currency on you.

Also be sure to visit Amman's most colourful street, "Rainbow Street". Walk up towards the higher ground or take a taxi for 5 Jordanian dinars. Colourful lanterns hanging above the road will keep you company as you stroll along this lively little street lined with painted façades and flower-filled shops. Take a seat on one of the dozens of terraces, enjoy a refreshing drink, and soak up the view and the atmosphere.

Want to get a bit higher up? Visit the Citadel. Standing at the top of Jebel Al Qala'a, Jordan's highest hill, this piece of history takes you back through time: from the first stone laid in the Bronze Age to the Roman, Byzantine and Umayyad eras. For thousands of years, politics, religion and power all had a stake in the Citadel. Today, you can still visit its remains. For 3 JD (€3.60), walk past the Temple of Hercules, visit the Umayyad Palace and pass by the Byzantine basilica. Also visit the amphitheatre.

Amman is also home to one of the few mosques in the world open to the public. The King Abdullah Mosque, or "Blue Mosque", can be visited for a small fee of 2 JD (€2.40). Browse the adjoining shop and pick out an outfit to cover up in before taking a look around.

4. The Dead Sea: float on the lowest sea on the planet

At the heart of Jordan, you'll be able to bathe in waters famed among many tourists for their beneficial properties: the Dead Sea. At 420 metres "below sea level", it's the lowest sea on the planet. Its blue waters contain a high concentration of salt and minerals that make you float on the surface, a unique experience not to be missed! Cover yourself in the mineral-rich mud for a mud bath. Swim in the salty water, relax on the beach, or explore the area on foot or by jeep.

In short…

From the magnificent desert landscapes of Wadi Rum to the lively city of Amman, Jordan has something to satisfy every taste!

A few photos from Yannick
(All photos in this article © Somsookheimwee)\

About Yannick and Charlotte
Yannick and Charlotte travel around the world with their son Sue. They share their stories on the blog Soms Ook Heimwee and have been loyal partners of Redion for several years. Soms Ook Heimwee is a visual travel blog that, through inspiring travel stories and captivating storytelling, aims to convince hesitant travellers to set off too. That said, you'll need to plan your own itinerary, as they don't write ready-made travel guides.